abtravels

I decided to go back to the hotel cafe and have – you guessed it – a karak chai. Whilst drinking the chai I came up with a plan to visit Madinah Dates Market which was half an hour walk away from the hotel so walkable for me. I’d read some reviews online and generally the consensus was you can get some good deals with haggling. 

So I thought I’d give it a shot. The market was in the opposite direction of Masjid an-Nabawi from the hotel. But as becoming very typical, the last few directions on Google maps were not walkable/safe. It directed me to cross a road when there was no crossing nor pavements/sidewalk.

Fortunately I think a driver pulled up and said “Taxi?”. This was a elderly gentleman probably past 60. You’ll get these drivers across Madinah/Makkah. They’re not actual taxis as such but I think just normal drivers on the road who will offer to give you a lift in return for a fair. Generally it’s quite safe but just be mindful I think and if possible use a proper taxi – maybe they have to be licensed which gives you greater protection as a passenger.

I got in the car and it became quite obvious that he was relying on me to give him the directions of where I wanted to go. Once I sorted this, Google Maps again frustratingly, gave directions to a wholesale foods market kind of like Spitalfields in London. I’m still glad I went as it was really large with so many traders selling all sorts of fruits and veg. But no dates where I was. It reminded me of the food market in Malé in the Maldives. 

I asked a trader by showing him a picture of some dates on my phone. He then looked right to the end of the warehouse I guess and swung his arm. I took that to mean that it was outside this building. I followed that direction and walked out on to the other side. 

The whole area was a massive market with sections for different items. There is one section for fruit and veg, another for small bakeries/biscuits, and another for household goods. I assumed the dates section was somewhere to be found here.

It wasn’t easy and I did a few circular laps until I came across the Dates shops. Arguably it was the smallest section in the whole market with about 7 shops who were completely filled with just dates. 

I remember reading the reviews online and a common tip was to check out all the shops for the best price as they can slightly differ. The first one was selling 1KG for SAR 20. As I walked from shop to shop, this as it turned out was the cheapest as the others ranged from 22 to about 28 I think. One of the shops I didn’t go into because it looked as though a big commercial deal was happening with a number of men and a lot of scales and some calculators.

I went back to the first shop and I asked again for 1 kilo Ajwa dates and he said 20 again. This was my pathetic attempt at haggling. I replied “15?” but the guy just repeated what I said to him back at me as if he didn’t understand what I was saying. 

I didn’t really try to force it, I just ok and he began to weigh up the dates and wrap them up in a plastic bag. He gave me a carrier bag too to make it easier to carry. As I was flying out that night, I still had a lot of notes and change which I needed to get rid of. So I suppose I wasn’t too concerned with the haggling as well. If I don’t spend it, it’s gonna go to waste. I handed over a 10 riyal note and 2 fivers before saying Assalamu Alaikum to leave.

Ajwa dates most typically come from Madinah. Whilst these are nice, there are a wide variety of other dates. I think if I go back I will maybe get a selection or mix of others to try. Some are a bit more dry than others so do try and ask if you can have a try before you make your selection.

As it was starting to get dark instead of walking all the way back I decided to book an Uber. I was standing next to a gas pump and a drive through coffee shop which was next to the entrance to the whole market area. I made sure this time to drop the pin on the Uber app exactly where I currently was and this worked perfectly as the driver turned off of the road to find me right beside the coffee shop/counter. I headed back to the hotel and quickly had a shower and got changed into my thobe for my final prayer at Masjid an-Nabawi.