abtravels

I had my Rawdah permit booked for 1PM the next day. The Rawdah permit is an allocated slot to visit Riyadh-al-Jannah (Garden of Paradise) and visit the Prophet’s grave and pay respects. The Garden of Paradise is considered to be a literal place of heaven on Earth where any prayers you make will be heard. I’ll be very honest, as sacred as I was hoping this part of my journey would be, it was actually the most chaotic and disappointing part which left me a little upset because of the way that it was handled not only by myself but also the authorities. It was meant to be sacred but it felt anything but if I’m being honest.

You have to book your permit through the Nusuk app which is managed by the authorities in Saudi Arabia I assume. I booked this whilst in the UK as the permits do get taken up quite quickly so make sure you book with plenty of time. 

I had originally planned to book for the day before but none were available. The Nusuk app is operationally very good. Once booked, you get a QR code that I had to show 3 times as you enter the restricted area of Masjid an-Nabawi.

I arrived at the mosque about an hour early if not more so I had enough time to find and locate the point at the mosque as well as to read afternoon prayers. Finding the area became a little stressful. 

This may be just me but I can’t see very well, especially long distances. And I clearly couldn’t see any signs directing me on where to go. So whenever I asked anyone where I needed to go, despite following their directions that they were pointing to after about 5 minutes of walking I just started to get very stressed as I was still in the prayer hall of the mosque. It kind of says something about how large Masjid an-Nabawi is.

I came to realise that the entry point is completely on the other side from where I entered. And given Masjid an-Nabawi is equivalent to 12 football pitches, this was quite a long walk to get to the checking points and queues on the other side. To be fair there weren’t any queues but you can see the ribbons as well as staff members waiting with their electronics to scan our QR code. The area going into the mosque area is quite calm and empty, but don’t be fooled by this. Wait until you get inside, it’s unbelievable.

I entered through the checking points where two staff members checked my QR code and waved me through. This got me inside the mosque into a waiting area where there were 20-30 other brothers. This was inside the mosque but a small section which was cordoned off with ribbons. 

I read nafl prayer whilst I was there. It was only a short time later when I heard a raised voice from one of the staff members where at this point all the people waiting in the area jumped up and basically started rushing. I don’t know where to at this point but it wasn’t something that I had witnessed before in Makkah/Madinah. People are just jumping up and rushing with urgency.

We had been offered some ZamZam water whilst we were waiting and I had taken a small amount. I was finishing the cup when all of this happened and was just taken so aback by it. I had no idea where everyone was going so I just followed the crowd. 

It was only a short while later when I now realise we entered Riyadh-al Jannah. Now this isn’t an actual garden but it’s an area inside the mosque under the green dome. It is a location where the Prophet Muhammed (PBUH) said that the area between his grave and his minbar (which is still there) will be the gates to paradise, and a lot of scholars interpret this to mean that it is symbolically an actual palace of heaven on Earth. The Prophet’s grave as well as that of Abu Bakr, Umar (PBUT) was the actual home of the prophet before the mosque was constructed all around.

Now however there is a wall barrier surrounding the graves with viewing points. You can’t actually enter the grave sites but you can nonetheless view it as well as make prayer. It is important that Muslims remember to not pray to Prophet Muhammed (PBUH) but they can pray for him and Prophet Muhammed (PBUH) said that for all those who do, I will hear your prayers. This is why it’s such a sacred place for Muslims on Earth.

There’s a lot more history about the actual location surrounding the graves which includes an empty grave for the return of Prophet Issa (Jesus-PBUH). There are also different walls and pillars which each have their own symbology and sacrednessness. You can google these if you wish.

When I stepped into the area, it was absolutely crowded. I was struck by a barrier of people that were standing/praying. The noise was unbelievable. I had hoped to pray and whilst I found a small space, even though I was crunched I did manage to stand in the prayer position. 

However I quickly saw a group of people moving forward and I stupidly decided to follow them. They were in a rush so I thought it was perhaps important and maybe I could get closer to the prophets grave.

However on reaching the other side of the block of people I had entered into I came across a sort of corridor. Staff members as well as soldiers literally started pushing everyone in one direction. 

I had no idea where to but I came to find out that they had literally pushed me out the exit. I only came to find out later when I asked a staff member where the Garden was and he pointed behind me.

I did try to return but I was stopped by a soldier who raised his voice to me. No idea what he was saying but it was obvious I couldn’t go back. It was really upsetting. The conduct of some people that were there was abysmal. There was a lot more pushing and shoving and the worst thing ever were people taking pictures in such a sacred place despite there being signs everywhere that said “NO PHOTOGRAPHS”. 

This is very common in sacred places like churches and cathedrals. It was the Garden of Paradise and yet people were treating it like they were visiting the Eiffel Tower. The conduct and disrespect by some was astonishing.

I admit this is probably me just being upset and frustrated but the permit only gives you 15-20 minutes but I just really wish I had more time and could have visited the prophet’s grave better. This was really upsetting as it was a major part of my trip that I was really hoping for and looking forward to. They say a trip to Makkah and Madinah is not a trip of the body but a return of your soul. 

I have lost both my father and older sister so far and I had really hoped to pray for our prophet but also pray and greet my family whilst there so they knew they will never be forgotten. In a symbolic way it was meant to be my visit to them and pray for them. But I never quite got to do this, which actually caused me to become a bit upset afterwards.

As I was pushed out into the open area I decided to give a call to my mum to explain what had happened. She did warn me about this previously to be fair and her reaction was one of “oh I knew this would happen”. I tried to rebook a permit for Rawdah on the Nusuk app but I came to find out that you can only book one per year. There are on the spot permits that sometimes open up if people cancel but these are very rare and you’d be amazed how quickly they get taken up.

I never did manage to do my Rawdah properly in the way I had hoped and planned for. This was upsetting but it may have been more my fault for not being prepared enough. I think the sacredness of it just made my preparations a bit more implicit if you like. 

But I didn’t really think of it like – sorry for the term – a gig/concert where you have to really manage yourself and where you’re going. So be prepared. Yes it’s sacred but you need to be prepared and planned. Look at the plans and maps if any are available online. And it’s not as spacious as you would hope and it’s not an actual garden.

I returned to Zaha hotel and after getting changed, having a shower, I went downstairs to the Zaha cafe and ordered a Turkish coffee and helped myself to a little Saudi coffee too. The coffee at the cafe is ok but not the best if I’m honest. 

Not that it’s disgusting but it’s very instant coffee and what’s bad is that it isn’t mixed very well. So the granules/powder will normally fall and collect at the bottom of the cup. Turkish coffee was nice, as it is a richer flavour and I love strong tasting coffee so would try this again given an opportunity.